Cornwall: Coffee, Coast and Clay

Another school holiday, and another trip to Cornwall from our house in Kent. This time, we based ourselves at Parkdean in Crantock for 4 nights (which was never going to be long enough, let's be honest).

Crantock is about as good a location as you can ask for, if your idea of a holiday involves a beach, dunes, coastal walks, paddle boarding, and being close enough to Newquay to nip in when you need to. The weather was mostly perfect for the week and much cooler than the previous previous three months' heatwave we'd experienced. It rained overnight a few times, real heavy overnight rain you could hear pounding off the caravan's tin roof, but the days were mostly good with a shifting mix of sun, cloud and a strong breeze. Plenty good enough sun and warmth to be on the beach, which we managed at least once every day we were there.

Tuesday was forecast to be overcast but warm, so we made that our day to head into Newquay and do a bit of a café tour, all under the guise of ‘research’ (just an excuse to drink and eat the local delights). We drove into Newquay and drank and ate our way around it for the next few hours, and squeezed in a trip to the Blue Reef aquarium. Here's what we took in:

The Newquay Café Tour

First stop was House of Glass, and I’ll be honest, this one set the bar for the whole trip. Great speciality coffee served with uber cool surf vibes. We tried a coconut mocha (on account of my newfound mild dairy and oat intolerance), and it didn't disappoint. Not one for the coffee purists maybe, but delicious all the same. If you only go to one place in Newquay, make it this one.

Next we found Butter, which turned into a bit of an ordering session because we couldn’t decide what we wanted and ended up working through most of the menu between us. The homemade vanilla latte was the standout - real vanilla rather than a pump of syrup - and you could taste the difference. We also had an americano and an iced chai latte each for the girls, both very good. This is a bakery-first cafe, and well worth a visit to snap up the delicious looking sourdoughs before they all go.

Then Mother Surf, which we’d earmarked as a food stop rather than a coffee one, and it delivered. We had the pancakes, a halloumi muffin and a breakfast muffin between us, and everything was really well presented, delicious, not too much, and not too little. A good shout if you’ve been on your feet in the drizzle and need something more substantial than a flat white to keep you going.

The Café (and Pizzeria) That Stole the Week

The Jam Jar Kitchen, Crantock

The place we keep telling people about, we found on the Wednesday morning: The Jam Jar Kitchen in Crantock. A little cafe by day, a pizzeria by evening, and truly excellent at both, which is a rare thing.

We went in for breakfast first. Between us we had two sausage baps, a bacon bap and an halloumi bap, all in brioche buns, all to a the highest standard. This wasn’t a bap thrown together, it was proper artisan stuff. The coffee was exceptional too, serving Origin from Penzance.

We liked it so much that we went back that same evening for the pizza. I don’t say this lightly, but they were the best pizzas I’ve had this side of Italy. Top quality, but built around local ingredients rather than trying to replicate traditional Italian pizzas.

It clearly made an impression, because the following evening we went back again for dinner. Twice in two nights tells you everything. If you find yourself anywhere near Newquay or West Pentire, go for breakfast, then go back for dinner, and don’t be surprised if you end up doing it again.

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The Mugs We Had to Buy x KlayHouse Studio

The other thing I can’t stop talking about is a mug. Two mugs, actually.

We found KlayHouse Studio the same Tuesday as the cafe tour in Newquay, over on The Crescent in the retail quarter by Killacourt. What makes it special is that the artist - Suzi, whom we met - makes the pottery right there in the studio.

The mugs reflect the local beaches and sea, the colours and finish really do carry Cornwall in them. We took one look and knew we weren’t leaving without one. We ended up with two, a large one and a smaller one, because we genuinely couldn’t choose. I wish we’d bought more (and we probably will next time we visit).

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Everything about them is perfect. The design, the weight, the size, the finish. And the story. They’re the sort of thing that makes the morning coffee at home feel like a small reminder of of Cornwall - whether it's being on the beach, paddling the Gannel or walking around the South West Coast path around West Pentire.

If you’re heading to that part of Cornwall, this is (the start of) my must-visit list. Others we didn't get to (yet) include:

• blend cafe (Crantock Street) - the benchmark, smoothie bowls and serious coffee

• Milk (Broad Street) - coffee-forward, bagels and homemade cake

• Saltd (Station Parade) - family-friendly surf-style cafe

• NALU Coffee House (Cliff Road, by the station) - bright, bagel-led all-day cafe

• Fore Street Cafe Bar (Fore Street) - bigger all-day operation with sea views

• Kaatje Koffee (Esplanade) - Origin coffee with sea views (closed Wed/Thu)

• Pavilion Cafe (Fore Street) - cardamom buns, great coffee, French-meets-Asian styling

• Project Eighty Three (Wesley Yard, by Mount Wise) - biker-themed cafe/bar, quality coffee and breakfast

Have we missed something vital? What's on your list?